Pt1 - 17: MASADA & EIN GEDI Business sometimes took us a fifteen minute walk up the Jaffa Road to the high-rise limestone heart of the new city. It could be any modern metropolis but for the side-locked, black-clad ultra-orthodox Hasidim in perpetual, self-absorbed motion – they always look like they’re forging into a stiff breeze – the yarmulkas , or skull caps, worn by almost every male, and the high-profile military presence so much a part of everyday Israeli life. Chic young things stroll the plazas arm in arm and drape themselves at tables along the cappuccino and pizza bar strip around Ben Yehuda Mall. Less chic young things hang out at the McDonalds on Shamai. The orderly traffic is heavy, except of course on a Saturday when absolutely nothing moves and the city feels as though it’s been abandoned. There are no hustlers, drunks or beggars here, no drifts of litter or derelict buildings. New Jerusalem is a city of high achievers with a sense of purpose and it is easy fo...
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